A serpentine concrete ramp snakes down a Kerry cliff to a tiny harbour, its switchbacks folded against two pyramid-shaped sea stacks. Nowhere else on the Wild Atlantic Way packs so much drama into one small pier.
Follow the well-beaten path beside the parking area, not the ramp, to the spot that captures the whole serpentine pier with the two pointy rocks behind it. The edge is unfenced and the ground spongy — keep back and hold children and dogs close.
A seasonal van by the parking area serves coffee, teas, soft drinks, light snacks and brownies, with limited outdoor seating. It's the only food on site.
The pier's famous switchback path is pedestrians-only — cars that try it get wrecked every summer. It's steep and uneven, so wear sturdy shoes; the climb back up is a workout but the rock formations at the water are worth it.
Boats leave from the pier for the abandoned island village, the White Strand's huge grey seal colony and puffin cliffs — about 20 minutes each way. Book ahead by phone or email; it is weather-dependent and there is no toilet on the island's mainland side.
Beyond the ticket huts, beaten paths lead around the headland for more views of the bay. Nearby you'll find the Spanish Armada memorial and the local cemetery.
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